Creating a tea accord in fragrance.
PUT THE KETTLE ON
Renowned and loved all over the world, tea is an ingredient we’ve certainly all drank in some form. Starting life used as a medicinal herb rather than beverage, its history dates back to 200 BC.
Grown all around the world, from Kenya to Sri Lanka, China to India, each with a unique identifying scent and taste. Assam, a black tea grown in India, is darker, with a slight earthiness to it, whilst green tea, usually grown in China, is slightly more aqueous. Earl Grey, a well-loved tea in England, has its own, very distinct, aroma due to bergamot oil being added, which creates a far more citrusy taste and smell.
TEA AROMA IN FRAGRANCES
A popular note, now, in fragrance, tea is a contemplative ingredient – much like the drink itself. Giving space to fragrances, it can add a soothing quality to a scent . It’s refreshing and uplifting and often paired with citruses and floral notes.
Green tea can be created using mate absolute in small quantities (in its purest form it smells closer to tobacco and hay than the watery green tea notes you find in fragrance). A green paste with a very strong green hue, it has a dry leafy aroma which is both complex and mellow. With great staying power, it clings to other base notes well and can add refinement to a fragrance.
Hedione, often described as a transparent note in perfumery, can also be used to echo tea notes. It gives a kind of airiness to fragrances and is often used in combination with other notes, say jasmine flowers or herbaceous notes, to give an aqueous tea effect.
To create black tea accords, stronger notes are used to produce the more woody, earthy tones of darker teas. Smokiness, which can be found in Lapsang Souchong tea, may be recreated by perfumers using a combination of birch tar, cade oil, resins or woods.
LAYERS\01 BERGAMOT INCENSE
A bergamot full of complexities. Bringing out all the facets of this radiant citrus fruit with contrasting ingredients. Frankincense and olibanum bolster the dry warmth and slight smokiness of incense oil. Juniper berry plays to its bright, zingy nature, with a tingle to the nose. Tea notes and a supple iris absolute calm and soothe. A scent that is soft and vibrant, cool and warm, sunlit and shadowy.