Perhaps one of the most well known flowers of them all, also known as “The Queen of Flowers”. Not just for the romantics, english gardens or girls.
NOT SO FEMININE
Rose is an incredible ingredients that is often misunderstood. For centuries the terms ‘feminine’ ‘floral’ and ‘powdery’ have been strong associations, and whilst these are all true, certain species of rose also carry a ‘fresh’ hint of ‘citrus’ as well as ‘clean’ ‘masculine’ ‘woody’ and even ‘fruity’ notes.
ROSE IN PERFUME
An impactful floral mid note. Rose is prevalent all across the world, in all shapes and sizes, not to mention the variety of smells and colours. However, the excessive cross breeding of roses to create a rainbow of colours, has unfortunately led to hybrid roses losing their scent. Roses comes in two types of extracts in perfumery: as an essential oil or absolute (deeper and sweeter than its oil counterpart). Rose has stood the test of time thanks to it’s ability to blend perfectly with other floral, wood and citrus notes.
Rose extracts contains hundreds of molecules, which explains why its scent is so rich and multi-facetted. Rose perfumery extracts have citrusy (lemongrass) notes, green, fruity (peach, plum, wine), spicy (clove), amber and sweet facets all in one single scent!
A METALIC TWIST
Rose oxide is a natural molecule found within rose with a metalic scent. Every flower species is made up from different molecules, some of which are responsible for giving it it’s scent. Beware of the natural indole component (present in most flowers) that can make a rose oil smell slightly rotten…!
These molecules bring such excitement to the world of perfumery! Not only can you re-create the scent of rose (at a more affordable price) but you can recreate the same rose again and again, without having to worry about where it has come from or it’s harvest! Not only this, but it means you can create an endless variety of rose scents not found in the flowers themselves! Experimentation in it’s truest form.
SMELLS GOOD ENOUGH TO EAT
Hand picked early in the mornings when the scent is strongest, the essential oil from roses (mostly Rosa centifolia aka may rose and Rosa damascena aka damask rose) are extracted the same day using steam. The left over rose water from the steaming process is commonly used in desserts such as turkish delight but can also be found in some perfumes, to give a lighter fragrance.
Turkey, Bulgaria, France and Morocco are perhaps the most well known for their production of rose, but it isn’t cheap! The pure oil of rose is the most expensive of the rose oils used in perfumery. The amount of rain and sunshine a rose receives can affect it’s scent, so it’s important to not use the same type of rose oil from different geographical locations or you could end up with something rather interesting…!
ROSE / RHUBARB
Roses bushes grow from a rhubarb patch.
The Perfumer’s Inspiration
A bright rose entwined with sharp blackcurrant and sparkling, zingy rhubarb. Aqueous peonies add dewiness, whilst blackcurrants expose its greenness. Petals, stalks and stems: a nose in a rosebush. Rich, jam-laced Moroccan rose absolute adds depth. A scent that sparks a childlike joy within. Pink to green like rhubarb stalks this is a rose that’s bursting with colour.
/ With rhubarb, blackcurrant leaves, peony, Moroccan Rose Absolute, white musks.
– Shop Rose/Rhubarb from the Layers/02 collection here.